Contact Us We offer our customers inspection assistance for German car imports with a 120-point inspection. Therefore, we allow you to benefit from the best prices on used prestige vehicles in Germany. Here are some steps before the turnkey delivery of your car in Germany

MOTORIMPORT INSPECTION FOR VEHICLE IMPORT FROM DUBAI

Nowadays, it is relatively easy to falsify mileage on the odometer. So never rely solely on the indicated mileage. We check the Car-Pass, the maintenance booklet, the repair bills, the technical inspections, the wear and tear on the gearstick and pedals, and the wear and tear on the driver's seat. Also suspicious: if the car has been driven regularly but has suddenly stopped driving in the last year or two. In such cases, we ask the seller directly and observe his reaction and credibility.

Ideally, we inspect the vehicle in daylight and in a dry state. We look at the different shades of colour and any paint residues on the rubber seals or windows to see if the vehicle has been touched up. We ask the seller about the reasons for the retouching. We look for surface irregularities and possible traces of sealant. To do this, we subject the suspect areas to a paint tester to determine the thickness of the sealant.

se loge fréquemment au niveau des portes, du capot, des ailes et des jonctions. Nous Vérifions l’éventuelle présence de rouille au niveau de l’entrée de toutes les portes, des bordures du toit ouvrant et des encadrements des fenêtres. Nous Examineons également le dessous du véhicule : les conduites de frein ou de carburant sont-elles rouillées ? Un pot d’échappement rouille vite au niveau des soudures et des jonctions avec les colliers. Une mince couche de rouille n’est pas problématique ici. Si nécessaire, piqueons les endroits rouillés. Demandeons si le dessous de caisse a été récemment enduit d’une couche de protection – celui-ci peut souvent cacher les zones rouillées.

We ask the seller whether the vehicle has been in an accident and the nature of the damage, as well as checking the gaps in the doors, fenders and bumpers for evenness. We also check for slight differences in paint colour and deformation. Repairs almost always leave traces - and the screws on the chassis are usually painted at the factory together with the vehicle; if not, we ask why not.

The rims and tyre sizes must be permitted for the vehicle. Ideally, the vehicle has summer and winter tyres with a good profile, i.e. they should never be less than 4 millimetres deep, although the law stipulates a minimum depth of 1.6 millimetres. For safety reasons, tyres on the same axle must have the same profile and profile depth (never more than 2 millimetres difference). They can be different on the front and rear axle. If the front tyres are worn from the outside in, the previous owner was driving fast in corners. However, tyres worn on one side only are also an indication that they are warped. In such a case, we require a measurement of the axle and new tyres. Also check the spare tyre, the warning triangle, the jack and the crossbar for the removal of the wheels.

Light metal rims are usually protected against theft by a lock or cover above the wheel nuts.

We check the windows and especially the windscreen for cracks. Your vehicle will not pass the roadworthiness test even if the glass is only defective at the edges, and damage to the glass becomes more serious over time.

If the vehicle smells musty, there is moisture. Not only is the smell unpleasant and often a sign of damaged windows, it also reveals defects such as leaks and rust. Lift up the carpets and touch the carpet. In the trunk, we access the side lining to find the cause of the moisture.

We check all seats for rust and also examine the headrests, mechanical elements such as seat adjustment and supports. We check the original upholstery underneath the covers. All seat belts must slide and retract/unfold easily.

We make the front and rear of the car sway at its corners. The body should return to its original position without continuing to sway for long periods. If the car is rocking, it is likely that the shock absorbers are defective. There should also be no slamming noise. We grab the tyres and shake them with both hands. If the wheels move, it is a defect in the bearings or the axle suspension.

We run the engine and shift gears without driving to make sure nothing skips or hangs. Let's do a clutch test by trying to move the vehicle into second gear with the handbrake on. If the engine stalls, everything is fine.

We check the play at the steering box by turning the steering wheel when the car is stationary (with the engine off). If it can be turned more than two fingers wide without moving the wheels, then the play is too large.

Most used cars undergo an engine cleaning to make the engine and engine compartment more attractive and cleaner. An 'overly clean' engine compartment looks just as suspicious as traces of oil under the engine and gearbox. Is there oil in the coolant? Or is there water on the dipstick? Then the cylinder head gasket is defective, which can be costly. We ask if the timing belt has been regularly replaced and check the information in the service book. If not, you can expect engine damage. We also check all visible hoses in the engine compartment for cracks or porous areas.

Problems with the camshaft and crankshaft are causing metal particles on the dipstick. We ask for the date of the last oil change. A required volume of top-up oil of more than one litre per 1,000 kilometres is considered critical.

Torn rubber gaskets or bellows on cables, steering and drive shafts suggest the work of weasels. This can lead to costly repairs

Knocking noises from the engine indicate that the timing chain is not adjusted properly. Adjustment is necessary. If the engine squeals, the timing belt or V-belt is incorrectly tensioned. The tension must be checked by a professional and readjusted to avoid the risk of damage to the bearings in the alternator.

The motor must constantly maintain a speed of rotation per minute of less than 1,000 t, especially when hot. If this is not the case, we ask why. It could be faulty injectors or spark plugs, or it could be a problem with the control unit. The last possibility is expensive.

We don't forget to check the brakes. The brake discs must not be scratched or rusty. We make sure that the brake lines are not rusting and that the level of the brake fluid reservoir is correct. Wet brake lines and insufficient brake fluid are signs of leaks that must be remedied immediately.

An old or bad battery can be recognised by deposits on the pole terminals and cracks in the case. Is the electrolyte level correct? A sticker on the battery gives information about its age. Normal batteries have a life of about 6-8 years.

We check whether all the lamps are working and whether the lenses are in good condition. Damaged headlights on the inside allow moisture to penetrate.

ater penetration is most often caused by defective seals. We therefore ensure that there are no porous or cracked seals on the doors, boot and sunroof. On the sunroof, the water drainage channels must not be blocked to prevent water penetration.

We check the functioning of all electrical components. Are the window regulators intact, can the exterior mirrors be adjusted without difficulty, do the interior lights, horn and sunroof work? Does the air conditioning work? All these points can be checked quickly and easily.

Many convertibles show wear and tear and weak points in the soft top. The soft top should open and close easily, no loops, hooks or buttons should be missing, and all should be in good condition. Cracks and grooves are not only unsightly, they are also a real defect. To check for leaks, we put the convertible through a washing tunnel.

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